The voyage of discovery is not in seeking new landscapes but in having new eyes.
—Marcel Proust, Remembrance of Things Past
In my last piece on cycling through the Dutch landscape, I wrote about the vast openness of the terrain. But I don’t know that I’ve conveyed out how very different that vastness is than anything else I’ve seen, or why that difference matters quite so much. I’ve been in other vast landscapes, from the California desert to the Scottish Highlands, but when I call them to mind as I cycle through Noord-Holland, they don’t map. They’re not the same thing.
The difference in the polder is not the great blue and white dome above me, nor the flat ground I ride on. It’s the join between them that makes the landscape what it is: that thing that I described last time as the intricate silhouette of civilization that marks the boundary between earth and sky all around.
The more I go out into the polder, the more I see how that narrow, complicated line is the focus of the whole landscape. It gives everything else scale and context. The sky is vaster and emptier against its peaks and curves; the clouds are fluffier for its sharpness. It frames and defines the fields around me. And it surrounds my journeys as well, lying at the beginning and the end of every path. Everywhere I go, I’m heading toward it, but I never reach it. Like a mirage, it dissolves into individual trees and houses as I draw near. And then that ever-varied unified silhouette reappears, reformed, when I leave the settlement for the next expanse of fields.
The constance of that shape marks the polder as a deeply, inescapably human thing. And that humanity is what blinded me to the beauty of the landscape for a long time. Wilderness has always been my refuge, the reservoir of my peace. And nothing here is wild.
When I lived in California, wilderness was easy to reach: drive up to the cabin, camp out in the desert, hike through the forest. Moving carless to Edinburgh taught me the tricks of simulating wilderness. I found a spot in Holyrood Park, in the heart of the city, where I could stand in a deep bowl of the hills and see not a single building. I would follow the Water of Leith through the north of the city, seeing and hearing only the stream and the rustling trees beside it. It was enough.
And even the wilderness I knew in California wasn’t really wilderness. I’ve never actually walked where no human foot has trod. The forest of my childhood was old logging land, its paths only passable because our neighbors ran cattle on it. The Highlands are a beautiful ecological ruin created by clear-cutting forests and overgrazing hills. And even the desert has roads, inhabitants, settlements. It’s all illusion and imagination.
But even illusory wilderness is hard to come by in the Netherlands, particularly in the Randstad, the urban conglomeration on whose northern end we live. There’s a nature reserve near our house. Sometimes I found it green and random enough to give me the feeling of wilderness. But it’s a tenuous illusion, interlaced with bike paths and benches.
I spent my first years here in a kind of terrified impoverishment, hoarding my approximations of solitude. I visited and revisited the few secret places where one can be entirely away from people and their most visible works. I rationed out the joy of taking new paths, knowing there were only so many unexpected sights of cultivated wildness to be found before everything grew familiar. I didn’t want to run out of peace.
Now I know that I was starving in the midst of plenty. But to come to the feast, I had to learn to see the world differently. I had to see it in a way that is (with the irony of which only history is capable) one of the great gifts of the Dutch to European civilization. I had to learn to see the transcendent beauty of the ordinary works of humanity.
To unpick what I mean by that last sentence, we need to go back in time about four hundred years. Ironically, this puts us in the same time that the Noord-Hollands polder was created. But for this we need leave the new-drained fields and venture into that intricate line of civilization.
In the rest of Europe, the 17th century was the Baroque era. Paintings emphasized the dramatic, the historic, and the mythological. Portraitists made their money by painting royalty and nobility. Beauty was the purview of the ideal and the refined, and true art lay in transmitting that to the mortal observer.
But in the Netherlands, that time was called the Golden Age, and Dutch artists were doing something different. With same materials and techniques that Italian and Spanish painters used for the hair of goddesses and the robes of kings, they filled their canvasses with milkmaids by windows and serious merchants.
These paintings were, collectively, the portrait of a very different society. The Low Countries were at the peak of their wealth, and the newly rich commoners wanted to look at a different kind of art. They bought images of ordinary streets, and a girl looking over her shoulder. For an entire century, while the rest of Europe was admiring cherubs and personifications, the Dutch mercantile class was demanding pictures that cherished and valued the reality of their lives. These people weren’t dreaming of myths or longing for Heaven. They had found the real world to be a good place, and wanted art to celebrate it. And the artists they hired shared their culture and values, and created luminous, transcendent images of ordinary life and normal people.
(In the long term, the Dutch won. We have plenty of symbolic and mythological art, but a quick glance at Instagram proves that what we produce, share, and look at are images that take the ordinary world and make it memorable.)
As for me, I’ve come to accept that my notion of wilderness was as mythical as any Baroque painting. I was assembling pieces of the real world into an idealized beauty: a kind of cobbled-together Eden, a false-fronted Paradise. It was a profound lie, a betrayal of my own materials. The things of this human world are luminous in their own right and in their own context.
So in the end, that intricate silhouette of civilization really is the heart of beauty, not only in the polder, but in all of our landscapes. I simply had to come here to see it clear.
Open landscapes are good like that.